ABC Brickworks | Singapore

Built in 1974 in Bukit Merah, ABC Brickworks is one of the longest running Market & Food Centres. Some say it’s named after Archipelago Brewery Company, the first commercial brewery in Singapore which was located nearby.

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Fatty Cheong #01-120
If you’re after char siew, make a beeline for Fatty Cheong! Chan Tuck Cheong opened his stall in 1992, specialising in roast and barbecue meats - char siew, roast pork belly and roast duck. The char siew is cooked in a charcoal oven and served with a sweet and sticky gravy. Bu jian tian translates to ‘roast pork that doesn’t see the sky’, Fatty Cheong uses this tender under arm cut and its lean meat and fat ratio is what sets his char siew apart. Order with rice or wanton noodles.

Jason Penang Cuisine #01-113
After working as a chef to the British High Commissioner for over a decade, Jason Khaw wanted to go back to his Penang roots. He opened this hawker stall with his wife to showcase traditional dishes of his homeland. The Penang assam laksa is worth lining up for.

Jin Jin Hot / Cold Dessert #01-20 is known for its durian mango ice aka Gangster Ice (it’s trademarked btw) and Power Chendol, an ice chendol topped with a syrupy gula melaka with pandan jelly and beans. The new owners revived this institution and its now one of the most popular ice kacang and cendol spots. Jin Jin was closed so I went to Heng Heng Hot & Cold Dessert #01-146 where the couple have been running this dessert stall for over 30 years. I ordered the Durian Mango Ice 🍧🥭

Wow Wow West #01-133
This ‘Western food done local’ stall had a constant stream of customers lining up for its famous Chicken Chop. It’s slathered in housemade black pepper sauce and served with a selection of sides including coleslaw, fries, baked beans (canned of course) and pork cheese sausages.

Next time I’ll try…
Bao Zai #01-135
Sadly Bao Zai was closed this time (open Fri - Tues 11am - 7pm). Uncle Leong has been hand making bao for over 50 years. You’ve got to try big bao with pork and egg, char siew bao and red bean bao. 
Yuguo Curry Rice: 6 Jalan Bukit Merah, #01-136
Yuan Yuan Claypot Rice #01-38
Ah Er Soup #01-143

Chinatown Complex Food Centre | Singapore

Chinatown Complex Food Centre is Singapore’s largest hawker centre with over 260 stalls. The building is over 35 years old and was renovated in 2019.

You can tick many of Singapore’s top stalls off here and it’s home to many hard to find snacks. Settle in 🥢🥢

It’s really easy to get lost in this huge complex so take a photo of the stall map near the elevators and remember which coloured zone you are in.

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Lian He Ben Ji Claypot #02-198/199
It’s open Fri to Wed from 4.30pm. This Michelin Bib Gourmand is very popular so get there early as you could be waiting! Traditional clay pot served in charcoal stoves with chicken on the bone, lap cheong and salted fish. Add soy and plenty of oil.

Crispy Rojak #02-195
This stall had a constant stream of locals. Very good Rojak made to order. The acid cut right through claypot so a nice addition. Loved the branding!

Smith Street Taps #02-062
This was one of the first craft-beer bars in Singapore and opened in 2014. You’ll find 20 taps of local and international crafties.

Mikkeller #02-058
Smith Street Taps collaborated with Mikkiller to open this stall right around the corner.


Shang Hai Fried Xiao Long Bao #02-
Chef Jiang (ex-Crystal Jade and Paradise Group dim sum chef) opened this stall earlier this year. The hero is Sheng Jian Bao which isn’t that common. It’s like a soup dumpling with thicker bao skin. It’s filled with pork meat and soup and the bottom is fried so you have this amazing *crunch*. Seriously good and worth the long wait!

My next time list is extensive so can’t wait to go back in December…
168 CMY Satay #02-168
Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle #02-126
Xiu Ji Ikan Bilis Yong Tau Fu #02-88
Fatty Ox HK Kitchen #02-84
Ann Chin Popiah #02-112
The 1950s Coffee Wu Shi Nian Da #02-48
Millennium Glutinous Rice #02-092
Old Amoy Cendol #02-008
Pan Ji Cooked Food #02-078
Ah Kong Wa Kuih #02-116

Maxwell Food Centre | Singapore

Maxwell Food Centre was originally a wet market and during the Japanese Occupation it housed a community kitchen for those displaced after the war. Maxwell reopened in 1987 and is home to some of the most famous hawker stalls thanks to Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsay.

Here’s what we ate

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Chicken Rice at Tian Tian and Ah Tai

There’s even a doco about the war between Tian Tian and Ah Tai chicken rice stalls. Ah Tai was the head cook at Tian Tian for 20 years and set out on his own in 2012 (he couldn’t get along when the daughter took over). Thanks to Bourdain and its Michelin star, Tian Tian always has a long line. Ah Tai is four stalls away. Grab a green plate from Tian Tian ($5) and blue from Ah Tai ($3.50) and see for yourself.

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice #01-10/11

Ah-Tai Hainanese Chicken Rice #01-07

China Street Fritters #01-64
Famous for its ngoh hiang fritters, this second generation stall has been running for over 80 years. Sadly the third generation won’t be taking over and with plans to retire, they listed the famed recipe for S$1 million. Sadly no buyers, but the stall continues to operate. We tried ngor hiong, egg slice, guan chang and ter kwa roll (pork liver roll) with Hokkien-style bee hoon.

Jin Hua Fish Soup #01-77
This one’s on the list for next time. This stall has been running for over 20 years with people lining up for its signature Fried Fish Meat Noodles with a rich milky base.

Ren Min #01-33
Fun fact, the founder’s first name is Manbeer and Ren Min originally opened as 3rd Culture Brewing Co back in 2016. Now Ren Min has two locations, one here at Maxwell and Old Airport Road. Pouring craft beers from its 12 taps an plenty of tins in the fridge. Find the tap list on Untappd.

Ah Gong Minced Pork Noodle #01-02
This stall recently made headlines for its $2.50 Bak Chor Mee. Had the signature dish served in a bubbling claypot. Each element is cooked from scratch and the broth was tasty.

Xing Xing Ondeh-Ondeh Tapioca Cake #01-31
This second generation hawker has been running the stall for the past 40 years. Get down early to get a platter of different kuehs—Tapioca Cake with Coconut Flakes, Ondeh-Ondeh, Steamed Tapioca Cake with Coconut Sugar and Kueh Kosui.

For more places to discover in Singapore. Check out my Google map.

Zion Riverside Food Centre | Singapore

Zion Riverside Food Centre opened in 1976 and is located near River Valley Road, along the Alexandra Canal. Smaller than most, this centre enjoyed a makeover last year with a new roof, automated tray return point and more tables.

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Here’s what we ate…

Boon Tong Kee Kway Chap Braised Duck #01-24
Duck braised in herbal broth with rice. Next time will get the Kway Chap.

No. 18 Zion Road Fried Kway Teow #01-17
Worth the wait! There’s always a long line so don’t leave it to late. Each Char Kway Teow is cooked individually and the air punches with wok hei.

Lau Goh Teochew Chye Thow Kway #01-26
Said to be be one of pioneers of white carrot cake, Lau Goh is now run by son Peter. Order the black and white carrot cake fried with egg.

Ah Wang La Mian Xiao Long Bao #01-22
Best known for its Szechuan Spicy Wantons. We got the Xiao Long Bao.

Zion Road Big Prawn Noodle #01-04
The Hae Mee With Broth comes highly recommended. Next time will grab a bowl of prawn noodles from this Michelin-Bib Gourmand.

For more places to discover in Singapore. Check out my Google map.

The Mango Place | Broome

I’ve got two emojis for you🥭🍕

The Mango Place is 18km out of town in 12 Mile and some say it’s the best wood fired pizza in Broome.

This ultra low key spot is complete with plastic chairs, a corrugated tin roof and shady umbrellas. It’s a little oasis set amongst a mango plantation owned by Julie and Geoff. They’ve been making wines, liqueurs, condiments and soaps at Kanagae Estate, all starring mango, for almost 20 years.

Order a pizza (go for the Chango - chicken and mango), mango smoothies and wine tasting flight and kick back.

TURNING 38 | #RICEISLIFE

My heart (and stomach) is bursting after an early birthday lunch themed ‘All The Rice Things’ or ‘I Hope You Like Carbohydrates’. I love that we’ve kept up this tradition over the last few years 💗 Thank you Andjelka for hosting in your Fremantle tea house and to all my glorious friends for your incredible contributions.

Ocean & Paddock | Albany, Western Australia

Nothing beats great fish and chips. Ocean & Paddock in Albany ticks all the boxes. The menu is HUGE… from beautiful local dhufish to deep fried mars bars to polenta fried prawn tacos. We’ve been here a few times now and it’s a real gem. Finding gluten free battered seafood can be a mission but not here! It feels like an age since I bit into a crunchy fried prawn 🍤🍤 Ocean & Paddock is definitely in my top 10 places to eat in Albany.

TRAVEL GUIDE | SAN SEBASTIÁN, SPAIN 🇪🇸

San Sebastián or Donastia as it’s known in Basque, is famed for its golden sand beaches, Michelin-starred restaurants, art nouveau buildings and beautiful Old Town. We stayed for 4 nights in a lovely AirBNB just a 5 minute walk away from the buzz of Old Town with its humming pintxos bars and plazas. Heaven!

WINE BAR | GERALD’S BELLA BAR

Gerald’s Bar in Carlton North remains one of our favourite Melbourne haunts.

Gerald’s Bar in San Sebastián shared the same virtues - bistro style small plates of seasonal produce, bang on wine list, upbeat ambient and an exceptional team.

Since returning home, I can’t stop thinking about this Oliva Spritz - manzanilla sherry, cava, a dash of lemon juice and syrup made from olive jar brine.

Make sure you go on a night when Bella is on. She truly made our night. Read more.

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PINTXOS BAR | PACO BUENO

Paco Bueno is a stand-up pintxos bar, run by the sons of a famous Basque boxer of the same name. The walls are heaving with framed pictures of him in action. The locals come here for a beer and gambas en gabardina, tempura-like prawns on sticks, for only €1.75. Find a spot at the bar, order a beer and prawns and wait for them to come out piping hot. Read more.

PINTXOS BAR | BORDA BERRI

You won’t find pintxos on the bar at Borda Berri. Chefs Iñaki Gulín and Marc Clua serve up raciones (think small plates) and change the menu regularly. We spotted four must-try signatures - 6-hour cooked PX veal cheek in red wine, puntalette risotto with idiazabal Basque sheeps cheese, squid in its ink ravioli and crispy pig's ear with romesco (below). Read more.

PINTXOS BAR | BAR TXEPETXA

Anchovies! Sardines! It’s all about oily fish here at at Bar Txepetxa. The fish is prepared freshly, delicious silvery fillets marinated, not salted, and placed atop bread with unexpected toppings. Read more.

PINTXOS BAR | ZERUKO

The signature dish at Bar Zeruko is La Hoguera - The Bonfire. Served on a mini bbq of smoking rosemary and coals, you’ll cook the tender sliver of cod yourself. Served with a chaser of herb mayonnaise crostini and a test-tube shot of liquid salad. Read more.

PINTXOS BAR | GANDARIAS

Snacks at this Old Town hang emphasise the classic preparation of well-chosen ingredients. On any given night, you might sample seared sirloin atop a slice of toasted baguette, a trio of braised beef cheeks smothered in rich brown gravy, or a skewer of grilled baby squid dressed in sauce of its own ink. Trust your eyes and pick up whatever looks best; no matter what you choose, you’ll develop an excellent baseline for what pintxos should be.

PINTXOS BAR | BAR NESTOR

Bar Nestor is an institution amongst locals and known for ‘the holy trinity’. Wait patiently for a spot at the bar and order:

1. Fresh ox heart tomatoes chopped into chunks, splashed with olive oil, a little vinegar, plenty of salt and served with bread to mop up all the oil.

2. Padron peppers flash-fried in a hot pan with olive oil then doused with salt.

3. The Txuleta! A Basque cut of beef - sirloin on the bone cooked slowly over hot coals. Then sliced, YES doused with salt and served just like that.

Read more.

PINTXOS BAR | LA VINA

Finish your pintxo crawl through Old Town at La Viña. Opened in 1959 by Eladio Rivera and Carmen Jiménez, this institution is now run by their son Santiago Rivera. You’ll be lining up for their famous burnt Basque cheese cream cake. It’s the stuff of legends and perfect with a glass of Pedro Ximenez. Read more.

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SHOP | LANCE & MALONE

Owned by local artists, Lance & Malone is an art shop in Old Town selling illustrations, collages and photographs by local artists. I’ve made a habit of collecting local art whilst travelling and “Salud” by local artist Mikel Casal is now framed and hanging in our kitchen.

COFFEE & BREAD | THE LOAF

Grab an artisanal loaf and the best coffee you’ll find in San Seb from The Loaf. Slice up sourdough, lather with butter and top with anchovies.

🍸BAR | DRY

Maria Cristina Hotel was built in 1912 and given a facelift for her 100th birthday. The 5-star luxury hotel is located in the Belle Epoque buildings along the River Urumea in the heart of San Sebastian, home to Asian-style Café Saigon, cooking school/grocer Mimo San Sebastián and swanky lounge bar Dry Bar. Stop by for cocktails and take in the opulence. Read more.

Bar Nestor | San Sebastián

That’s Ryan patiently waiting for a spot at Bar Nestor. He looked a bit disgruntled so I popped across the lane to Bar Zeruko whilst we waited.

Bar Nestor is where the locals eat. It’s an institution and known for ‘the holy trinity’.

1. Fresh ox heart tomatoes chopped into chunks, splashed with olive oil, a little vinegar, plenty of salt and served with bread to mop up all the oil.

2. Padron peppers flash-fried in a hot pan with olive oil then doused with salt.

3. The Txuleta! A Basque cut of beef - sirloin on the bone cooked slowly over hot coals. Then sliced, YES doused with salt and served just like that.

Incredible. We’d go back time and time again. If you do make it there, try your luck on getting dibs on a slice of tortilla. The owner’s wife makes two, one for lunch and one for dinner, and slices it into 12 pieces. If you get in early you might be able to get your hands on an elusive slice. Once it goes, that’s it.

Gerald's Bar | San Sebastián

Gerald’s Bar in Carlton North remains one of our favourite Melbourne haunts. Gerald’s Bar in San Sebastián shared the same virtues - bistro style small plates of seasonal produce, bang on wine list, upbeat ambient and an exceptional team. Make sure you go on a night when Bella is on. She truly made our night.

Oliva Spritz

Homemade Pate de Campagne

Marinated white anchovies

Olasagasti tuna belly

Local tomatoes, vainalla

Bat Berri Txakoli, Itsas Mendi, H. Zuri, Bizkala

LA BIGOUDEN CREPERIE | SAUMUR, FRANCE

Saumur is a little town in the Loire Valley and renowned for the École Nationale d’Équitation, a national riding school home to the Cadre Noir equestrian corps. We left Valaire and stopped by Saumur on the way to La Rochelle and stumbled upon Crêperie Saladerie La Bigouden.

Traditional creperies use buckwheat flour which means they are gluten free. In typical form, we shared four crepes for three people... that’s just how we rolled through France. Chef’s kiss.

LA PANIER DE CRABES | LA ROCHELLE, FRANCE

La Panier de Crabes is tucked away in the charming Place de la Fourche within the Saint Nicholas District of La Rochelle. Brightly covered tables are dotted over the cobbled square, shaded under a beautiful big tree. We first stopped by in the evening and could not get a table so came by for lunch and ordered a plateau de fruits de mer.

Gandarias | San Sebastián

Gandarias is always bustling and we loved the variety and abundance here. The must-try pintxo here is the Solomillo - a juicy chunk of beer sirloin on bread topped with green pepper and a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.

Borda Berri | San Sebastián

You won’t find pintxos on the bar at Borda Berri. Instead you’ll order raciones (think small plates). The menu changes frequently and we spotted four signatures on the menu. 6-hour cooked PX veal cheek in red wine, puntalette risotto with idiazabal Basque sheeps cheese, squid in its ink ravioli and crispy pig's ear with romesco. Chilled Txacoli to wash it all down did the trick.

Bar Txepetxa | San Sebastián

It’s all about sardines and anchovies pintxos here at Bar Txepetxa. They make them to order with unexpected toppings. The fish is prepared freshly, delicious silvery fillets marinated, not salted, and placed atop bread and your choice of…

• Jardinera – red and green peppers salsa, guindillas, onion

• Crema de Centolla – creamy spider crab

• Foie y Compota de Manzana – foie gras and apple sauce

• Huevas de Erizo de Mar – sea urchin roe

• Huevas de Trucha – trout roe

• Pate de Oliva – olive pate

• Arándanos – blueberries

• Coco – coconut

• Papaya – papaya

• Bocarta – salted anchovy and piquillo pepper

• Salmon – salmon

• Salazon – salted anchovy

Zeruko | San Sebastián

The signature dish at Bar Zeruko is La Hoguera - The Bonfire. Served on a mini bbq of smoking coals, you’ll cook the tender sliver of cod yourself. Served with herb mayonnaise and a test-tube shot of liquid salad. We tucked into pintxos here whilst waiting for a spot at Bar Nestor. Also try the zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese and creamy sea urchin.

La Viña | San Sebastián

Finish your pintxo crawl through Old Town at La Viña. Opened in 1959 by Eladio Rivera and Carmen Jiménez, this institution is now run by their son Santiago Rivera. You’ll be lining up for their famous burnt Basque cheese cream cake. It’s the stuff of legends and perfect with a glass of Pedro Ximenez. Get there early and go every night. I’m still dreaming of this a year on.

Paco Bueno | San Sebastián

Paco Bueno is a stand-up pintxos bar, run by the sons of a famous Basque boxer of the same name. The walls are heaving with framed pictures of him in action. The locals come here for a beer and gambas en gabardina, tempura-like prawns on sticks, for only €1.75. Find a spot at the bar, order a beer and prawns and wait for them to come out piping hot. The bocadillos, sandwich made with Spanish bread much like a baguette, are great value too if you are looking for breakfast.

Gambas en Gabardina

Pintxos

Bocadillos

L' HERBE ROUGE | LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE

We left Paris for the Loire Valley, stopping by Orléans until we reached the small village of Valaire for our two-night stay at L’Herbe Rouge.

Valaire is situated in the department of Loire-et-Cher and Centre-Loire Valley region. It’s a 20-minute drive to its prefecture Blois or nearly an hour to Tours.

L’Herbe Rouge was picture perfect. The charming bistro sprawls out into a lively terrace. Car loads pulling in to enjoy lunch, with another wave hitting for dinner.

Out back, colourful lounges are the perfect spot to soak up sunshine, breathe in the country air and pop a bottle of local bubbles.

The current owner Sophie Rabeyran-Haudebourg took over the restaurant and lodgings from its original owner Cécile Argondico 2018. The essence of L’Herbe Rouge remains true — with home cooking, local and organic produce and natural wines are its core. Each day Sophie creates a simple three course menu for lunch and dinner. Rustic yet inspiring, served alongside natural wines from the region.  

Above the bistro are three gîtes. Each with bedrooms, kitchen and living room. The walls adorned with iconic wine posters and photos of winemakers. We loved our stay here. Such a magical little spot.

AKERBELTZ | SAN SEBASTIÁN

Find a spot on the terrace and make your way through the craft beers. Akerbeltz is a popular spot, clocking over 30 craft brews both local and international. Enjoying the views of the port and a spot of people watching.