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Maria Cristina Hotel was built in 1912 and given a facelift for her 100th birthday. Lucky lady.
The 5-star luxury hotel is located in the Belle Epoque buildings along the River Urumea in the heart of San Sebastian, home to Asian-style Café Saigon, cooking school/grocer Mimo San Sebastián and swanky lounge bar Dry Bar.
Before another round of pintxos hopping, we stopped by for swanky cocktails mixed by Adolfo ‘Fito’ Raba. He’s been working here for 30 years. That’s dedication.
This stylish bistro run by self-taught Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte, came highly recommended by my friend, and all round good guy Max Veenhuyzen. His list of the world’s best eating haunts and cultural must eats is coveted and FK I'm lucky to have such generosity on tap. Sir… I salute you.
Le Chateaubriand was incredible! 70 Euros for the 7 course menu, 135 with matching wines.
Step back in time to medieval Scotland. The Witchery is located in a historic 16th century building, close by the gates of Edinburgh Castle and home to nine fantasy hotel suits and an outrageously theatrical restaurant. The Witchery by The Castle is a enchanting with its secret garden, dark wooden panelling and candelabras, the charming details inject an air of romance and mystery. A nice little spot to stop whilst exploring the Royal Mile.
You can't miss Grand Hôtel Amour. A grown up version of the original Hôtel Amour. By day, you'll spot the tell-tale blue, red and white frontage and by night, the hotel's bar Petite Amour bursts with bodies across the road, glowing under the flickering neon.
Located on rue de la Fidélité in Paris' 10th Arrondissement in a hip part of town and designed by graffiti artist cum nightlife kingpin André Saraiva (Le Bain and Cafe Henrie in NYC, The Friend in LA, Le Baron in London). You'll find 42 unique rooms (and one apartment) inspired by travels from across the globe and a hip bistro just made for Insta-envy.
The Apartment felt like a home away from home, just with room service and a risqué portrait of Vivienne Westwood.
High on Monte Tauro on the east coast of Sicily sits the resort town of Taormina. With sweeping views of the Ionian Sea, Mount Etna as its backdrop and an ancient Teatro Greco ‘Greek theatre’, this seaside location is the perfect escape for a taste of Sicilian dolce vita.
We packed a lot into our three nights in Taormina thanks to travel tips and recommendations from friends. I hope this list keeps you satiated.
Views of Mount Etna
STAY | HOTEL VILLA BELVEDERE
📍 via Bagnoli Croci, 79
Hotel Villa Belvedere has all the charms of a traditional Sicilian private villa with its terracotta floors and parlour rooms. Nestled on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naxos and Mount Etna and only a short walk to the town. We loved our three night stay here. Read my review here.
SEE | PIAZZA IX APRILE
📍 Corso Umberto
The main square of Taormina is Piazza 9 Aprile, the heartbeat of the town. Named after an important date, 9 April 1860, when mass in the Taormina cathedral was interrupted to announce that Garibaldi had landed at Marsala to begin his conquest of Sicily. Avoid the overpriced cafés that line the square, find a bench and enjoy some people watching whilst taking in the views.
SEE | TEATRO GRECO
The ancient Greek amphitheatre hosts almost all cultural events in Taormina. What a spot for a film festival?! HEAVEN.
The construction of the Teatro Greco dates back to the third century BC and is an awe-inspiring historical sight. Plus you'll love the stunning backdrop of the Calabrian coast, the Ionian coast of Sicily and Mount Etna.
Chiesa Santa Caterina D'Alessandria
SEE | VILLA COMUNALE
📍 Via Bagnoli Croce
Wander through the stunning public gardens to escape the hustle. Created by English aristocrat and conservationist Lady Florence Trevelyan in the late 19th century. Take a book and enjoy this lush paradise overlooking the sea.
The Odeon, a modest Roman-era theatre of the AD 2nd century.
SWEETS | GELATOMANIA
📍Corso Umberto, 7
Look, I’m no gelato expert but I’m about two years into my Chicho Gelato addiction. That weekly hit of the good stuff has certainly refined my palate. Of all the gelato I tried in Taormina, Gelatomania was by far the best. Nearby town Bronte grows the best pistachios in the world, so make sure you get a scoop!
SWEETS | PASTICCERIA MINOTAURO
📍 via di Giovanni 15
A local pointed out this little pastry shop. The glossy fruits will dazzle you if you’re a marzipan fiend. Otherwise go for the stuffed cannoli and keep going back until you are dead certain you’ve found your fave flavour.
SWEETS | BAM BAR
📍 via Giovanni di Giovanni, 45
An absolute must. This bright and lively granita bar is a favourite with locals and tourists. Endless granita flavours with in-season heroes. Order the Granita con Brioche… eat like the Sicilians by tearing off the brioche and dipping it past the cream into the granita below to get the full experience. YUM!
EATS | TISCHI TOSCHI
📍 via Francesco Paladini, 3
Cutest name, best little spot! My friend Alicia raved about this hidden gem. Tucked away from the main tourist drag, Tischi Toschi is a family-run trattoria with a focus on slow food. The limited menu changes with the seasons and you’ll find an interesting take on regional specialities. Dive into the wine list and let them steer you towards the local Sicilian winemakers. You have to order the baked goat cheese. Out of this world… salty, stringy, hot and loaded with garlic and herbs.
EATS | TIRAMISÚ TRATTORIA
📍via Cappucini, 1
Another gem from my friend with the good tastebuds. Tiramisu is located nearby Porta Catania and has an intimate and cosy vibe.
Staff were hilarious… this guy thinks he is a dead ringer for Vin Diesel. Go for the jokes, Risotto alla Marinara and Linguine Polpa di Ricci (sea urchin) and stay for its namesake, the tiramisu.
EATS | PIZZERIA VILLA ZUCCARO
📍 5 Piazza Carmine
This open-air pizzeria was absolutely heaving. Love the bustling vibe and watching pizza pans fly by. Beautiful big pies cooked the Neapolitan way. I have a soft spot (yep that jiggly bit around my waist) for cheese, so the quattro formaggi was my pick. Loved the prosciutto and pistachio number too. Wash it down with an Aperol Spritz. Mangia mangia!
WINE | AL GRAPPOLO D'UVA
📍 via Bagnoli Croci, 6
You'll find charming enotecas dotted through the town. We stopped in for prosecco at Al Grappolo D'Uva before dinner. Highly recommend having an early dinner and then settling in for the evening, letting the staff talk you through the local and natural wines.
Hotel Villa Belvedere has all the charms of a traditional Sicilian private villa with its terracotta floors and parlour rooms. Run by the Bambara-Pécaut family since 1902, Belvedere occupies a 19th century villa, nestled on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naxos and Mount Etna.
Right next door to the stunning botanic gardens ‘Garden of Villa Comunale’ and only a short walk to the town centre, made it the perfect launchpad for our three nights in Taormina. Our seaside room was set for three which made it a little tight but comfortable. We could peer out to the ocean and look down upon the sprawling gardens and azure pool from the Juliet style balcony. By day, we soaked up the sun poolside so a simple room was all we needed for afternoon snoozing (and digesting).
We booked direct (€455 per night) and scored a complimentary lunch which we enjoyed on the first day. Whilst third party booking sites can lure you in with cheaper prices, try to book direct as hotels will generally price match and dangle a bonus or two.
Staff were uber friendly and the vibe was chilled and approachable. If we had more time, I would have curled up with a book in the lounge areas every afternoon after pool-time. I loved waking up with the sun, watching the seaside slowly rouse and leisurely walk downstairs to breakfast. There’s nothing like that morning reminder... yesssss, I’m on holiday. The buffet breakfast was overflowing with sweet and savoury options and hit the spot.
Thinking of a few nights in Taormina? Highly recommend staying here whilst you tackle the town and all the eats on offer. Check out my travel guide hit-list here.
Dishoom. A tribute to the old Irani cafes of Bombay.
The Big Bombay | abundant Akuri, char-striped smoked streaky bacon from The Ginger Pig, peppery Shropshire pork sausages, masala baked beans, grilled field mushroom, grilled tomato and buttered, home-made buns.
Keema Per Eedu | A Parsi power breakfast: spicy chicken keema studded with delicate morsels of chicken liver, topped with two runny-yolked fried eggs and home-made buns.
New York has Underwest and Dough, Portland has Blue Star and Vancouver has Cartems.
Owned by doughnut dreamer Jordan Cash and Executive Chef Rags, Cartems has grown from an idea, to a pop up shop that simply couldn't keep up with demand to the donuterie is is today, boasting three locations in Downtown, Main Street and Kitsilano.
Artisanal doughnuts galore! Including glazed, cake, raised-yeast and huzzahhhh gluten-free! I loved the cakey Honey Parmesan for glutards and the seasonal Christmas beauties. You haven't been to Vancouver if you don't walk around with a beautiful red box full of the good stuff under your arm.
Whiskey Bacon
London Fog | Whipped cream infused with fresh ground organic London Fog tea and stuffed inside a yeasted donut. Glazed with earl grey glaze and topped with stripes of white chocolate ganache.
Earl Grey | Cake donut infused with an organic earl grey tea, topped with earl grey glaze and a sprinkling of rose petals.
Christmas Special | Eggnog Stuffy! An eggnog pastry cream stuffed yeast donut with a spiced rum glaze and feuilletine topping.
Christmas Special
Christmas Special | Mulled wine glaze on a vanilla cake dough with a mini gingerbread friend.
Smokestak is a cult street food success story. Opening its bricks and mortar digs on Scatler Street in Shoreditch in late 2016. Serious about cooking damn good meat, the smoker takes centre stage. Order up.
Thick-cut pork ribs, pickled cucumber
Green chilli Tommy's | tequila, jalapeno, lime, agave, triple sec
Coal roasted aubergine, red miso, toasted cashews
30-day dry aged beef rib, pickled red chilli
Jacket potato, smoked rarebit
Beef brisket, mustard barbecue
Le Dauphin is a hip bar serving Spanish-style tapas. You’ll love the marble everything and floor to ceiling mirrors. Very chic, very disco and right next door to Le Cave and Le Chateaubriand. This little strip is a must-do.
Located in the heart of Les Halles, Le Comptoir de La Gastronomie shines the spotlight on the south west of France. A gourmet grocery store and restaurant famous for its duck foie gras, terrines and cassoulet. With stunning marble bar tops, tiles underfoot and walls laden with gourmet products, a visit here is a must. Get in early and reserve a table and don't miss the foie gras carpaccio with honey sauce and sea salt like we did.
House platter of duck foie gras, chutney and toast
Shepherd's pie with duck and mushroom sauce
Bourgogne snails, very big
Foie gras ravioli with a truffle sauce
When my sister’s Parisien friend shared a little insider info… ‘the best boulangerie-patisserie in Paris, in my humble opinion’, naturally it was our first stop. Order up and find a park bench to share your baked goods. Recommend arriving early as stocks were running low in the afternoon.
Holiday dilemma #496… should your last meal be traditional cuisine of the destination? For us, the answer was yes. So we found a stylishly shabby old bistro, Au Petit fer a Cheval in Le Marais, that has likely not changed the menu since 1963. Soup du jour, Steak tartare, Duck confit and Beef bouguignon satisfied that calling for traditional French fare.
Cheese heaven! The best thing about staying in an AirBnb (or in our case Le Apartmentt at Grand Hotel Amour) is finding local produce and creating the ultimate grazing platter. The owners of this fromagerie were incredibly friendly, the gatekeepers of cheese heaven. Buy your weight in cheese and meats then head down the road for plump raspberries and fresh apricots.
Who's up for a roast hog roll? I put the call out on Facebook and Oink kept popping up in the 'oh you have to eat this' list. Local farmers Adam Marshall and Sandy Pate started peddling rolls at Edinburgh Farmers Market in 2001 and now have three stores under their belts. Line up and choose your size (piglet, oink or the whopping 250g size dubbed the 'grunter'), bread, stuffing and sauce... and away you go! This pulled pork roll had just the right amount of crackle and toppings... delish! Definitely one for the meat lovers.
Often it's the basic creature comforts I crave most when travelling for extended periods of time. To stretch out... nothing beats that delicious couch + Netflix combo after a day of exploring. To create a home cooked meal.... with the bounty of produce I've picked up from the local markets. To open a damn window... and breathe in fresh air (not set at the prescribed 24°C). Plus who else wants to easily throw on a load of washing without hauling ass and undies to a laundromat?
Booking on Airbnb gives you the flexibility and convenience that only a home away from home can provide. Not to mention experiencing a neighbourhood like a local which is the ultimate way to explore a city.
We started our European summer adventure in London to visit my sister. I wanted a spot within walking distance from Shoreditch, Angel and Islington and close to all her favourite digs. I knew that after our 24 hour transit I wanted to ease into our holiday in an Airbnb, a few days to settle into the time zone, laze about and catch up with friends. I left my booking run pretty late and thankfully stumbled across a 2 bedroom loft-style apartment in Old Street. The photos were catching and although there were no reviews, I took a gamble and bingo!
The apartment felt like we were staying with old friends from the moment we unlocked the door. Airy and spacious with a lived-in feel. There was something comforting and welcoming about the decor. Eclectic but not cluttered, boasting heaving bookshelves, a fully stocked kitchen (having an actual cheese board and cling wrap for leftovers IS necessary), comfortable beds and a decent sized bathroom for London standards. Plus the clincher, the location! Walking distance from all my fave spots (which I'll share soon in my travel guide).
I found out later that this was owner Shamim's first foray as an Airbnb host (hence no reviews) and handing over the keys to strangers. He was an absolute pleasure to deal with and I'd highly recommend anyone looking for a central location with a bit of space to check it out. It is the perfect accommodation for two couples, a few friends (if you don't mind sharing a bed) or a young family as the shower has a bathtub and only one flight of stairs.
View the property on Airbnb. Map showing location below (only a heartbeat away from it's closest landmark The Brittania).
Escape from the bustle of the streets below and climb up the stairs to Shelter. This open aired cafe serves up health conscious dishes like Hawaiian inspired acai bowls, salads, smoothies and abundance bowls.
If you asked where could you go back time and time again. I'd answer with 'Supernormal'. Here's my playlist of smash hits that I've enjoyed over the last two years heading back and forth to Melbourne.
Fried rice dough balls with sticky, sweet, sour, spicy sauce and white sesame
A big glass of orange wine
Tuna, avocado, wakame and pickled cucumber
Beef tartare, clam mayonnaise, mustard leaf, shallots
Cobia sashimi, pickled fennel, chilli and yuzu.
Duck bao with twice cooked duck leg, vinegar & plum sauce
Prawn & chicken dumplings, chilli & vinegar sauce
Pan fried pot sticker dumplings
Ramen is not a regular menu feature. When it's on... run!
'Portland is where young people go to retire.' Portlandia
For a girl that loves local produce, artisanal purveyors, design driven products and those community feels (did I mention food carts?), Portland was everything I could ever ask for! We spent four nights in Portland based at Ace Hotel over the New Year's break. It was absolutely freezing but we found warmth and comfort in the city's friendly hospitality and incredible offerings.
STAY | ACE HOTEL
📍1022 SW Stark Street
For me, Ace Hotel is Portland. It's located on the edge of the Pearl District and smack bang in the middle of it all. The lobby is a hive of social activity with people tapping away on Macbooks whilst sipping on Stumptown coffee. We kept going back to Clyde Common (it's just off the lobby), and it's right nearby the Alder Street food cart pod and so many great eateries.
Loved the personalised touches like the locally crafted cookies with a hand written welcome note on the bed and a list of where's best to celebrate NYE. The rooms had an industrial feel, a little no frills but super comfy with big fluffy pillows and a hard (enough) bed. Attention to detail was 10/10... honour bar full of the best local brews and wines, Malin & Goetz products (like you actually want to use these!) in the shower and impeccable service. Check out my blog post here.
☕️☕️ | STUMPTOWN COFFEE
📍various locations
Need coffee in Portland? Stumptown Coffee is the answer. You'll find plenty of locations around the city but my favourite is right next door to the Ace Hotel. Grab a coffee, sink into the green canvas lounge and watch the world pass you by.
EAT | CLYDE COMMON
📍1014 SW Stark St
Clyde Common is also right off Ace's lobby, but that's as hotel restaurant as this place gets. Start your day with a hot breakfast, a hit list of staples right through to more decadent offerings to slam down with a coffee. Stop in for a quick snack, biscuits with housemade jam or pull up a spot at the bar and graze on snacks.
EAT | TASTY & ALDER
📍580 SW 12th Ave
Tasty & Alder is a trailblazer in Portland's brunch scene, they've even published a cookbook 'Hello My Name is Tasty' that pays homeage to the hits. Much like Clyde Common, we kept going back to this bright and cheery corner eatery. Morning, noon, night.. it doesn't matter just make sure you are hungry.
DRINK | PEPE LE MOKO
📍407 SW Tenth Ave
Right underneath Clyde Common is Ace Hotel's basement bar Pepe Le Moko. An intimate spot for a cocktail or two and late night nibbles. I loved our spot at the bar watching the mixers do their thing.
FOOD CART POD | ALDER STREET
📍Southwest Alder & Washington Streets
Alder Pod boasts biggest downtown collection of Portland’s food carts. Located between Southwest Alder and Washington Streets, from southwest 9th to southwest 10th Avenues. Hot favourite includes Nong's Khao Man Gai and Mac & Trees.
EAT | NONG'S KHAO MAN GAI
Khao Man Gai. Hainanese chicken. Chicken and rice. Whatever you want to call it, just make sure you get there early and before the fried chicken skins sell out. Nong Poonsukwattana knows chicken rice and it is easily Portland's most popular food cart. So good you'll try and recreate it at home using Munchies recipe when those cravings kick in.
EAT | MAC & TREES
Is there anything better than mac n cheese?! Mac & Trees has been serving up the good stuff since the summer of 2015. Choose from the specials or build your own. I've noticed they started adding vegan cheese to the menu too.
🍩🍩 | BLUE STAR DONUTS
📍 1237 SW Washington St
Holy smokes! The donuts at Blue Star are mind blowing. The bright hued Blueberry, Bourbon & Basil glaze is a must! Made onsite using fresh blueberries, fresh basil, sugar and a splash of Bulleit bourbon. Now that I'm home wish I'd also had a Hard Apple Cider Fritter.
There is a bit of hype around Voodoo, another donut joint, but a few different foodie sources said not to bother.
EAT | MOTHER'S BISTRO
📍 212 SW Stark Street
Homely, hearty food just like Mom would make. You'll find no fuss breakfast, lunch and dinner at Mother's Bistro. You won't be blown away but sometimes a little simplicity and wholesome cooking is all you need.
FOOD CART POD | CARTOPIA
📍1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd
Portland’s late night food cart pod has some of the best. Grab some eats and gather around the fire in winter or find a spot under the marquee.
🥔🥔 | POTATO CHAMPION
📍 1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd
Located in Cartopia is Potato Champion! A food cart dedicated to the humble spud. I would do anything to dive into another serve of the PB&J fries. Fries topped with satay sauce and smoky chipotle raspberry goodness. Bam!
EAT | PBJs GRILLED
📍 1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd
Toasted sandwiches done good.
*Update Jan 2017 - looks like these guys are now closed.
EAT | POK POK
📍3345 SE Division St
No matter how early you head to Pok Pok, you'll still be last in line. But don't worry.. it's absolutely worth the wait! An ode to Northern Thailand street food by US chef Andy Ricker. Opening in 2005, it's the stuff of legends and cemented Division Streets row of restaurants. Order the famous Ike's wings and let staff talk you through the menu.
EAT | WHISKEY SODA LOUNGE
📍3131 SE Division St
Scoring a table at Pok Pok straight away is unlikely, wait nearby at Whiskey Soda Lounge and order yourself some soda, drinks and try the Plaa Meuk Ping (toasted dried cuttlefish).
🍦🍦 | SALT & STRAW
📍3345 SE Division St
Salt & Straw is a cult artisanal ice cream shop. Focusing on local produce and seasonal flavours, the team often collaborate with like-minded purveyors. If you only limit yourself to two scoops... go for these awesome collabs Pear and Blue Cheese (w/ cheesemongers Rogue Creamery) and Arbequina Olive Oil (w/ Red Ridge Farms' Oregon Olive Mill ).
SEE | PORTLAND FARMER'S MARKET
📍 1010 SW Park Ave
Located in the the quintessentially American surrounds of Portland's State University, the Portland Farmer's Market are open all year round. I wish we had travelled during spring or summer as the markets would have been plentiful. Go to stock up the kitchen in your AirBNB and enjoy street food from the stall holders. The money bowl and tamale were two of my fave eats on the whole trip, all the pics are here. Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall and Portland Art Museum are close by and also worth checking out.
SEE | PITTOCK MANSION
📍 3229 NW Pittock Drive
Built by owner of The Oregonian newspaper Henry Pittock in 2914. Pittock's Mansion is bursting with history and remarkable stories. We were there during the Christmas holidays and every room was adorned with festive decorations. Make an afternoon of it and take in the breathtaking views of Portland.
PORTLAND FOOD GUIDES
I spend more time reviewing food and travel guides than I do on the damn accommodation! Here are some guides and platforms I'd highly recommend you check out before you embark:
* Food truck nerds can well.. nerd out on Portland Food Carts.
* Are you a glutard? So is my soul sister Andjelka. If you are into gluten free delights, wholefoods, yoga and a slower style of living you'll love her curated guide to Portland on Life Curator.
* My good friends at The City Lane are building a gastronomers guide to eats around the globe and have rustled up a nifty guide for Portland (great for beer lovers!).
* Citizens of the States swear by Yelp. You'll find it super handy when travelling for honest peer reviews.
WISH LIST | FOR NEXT TIME
Le Pigeon
Kachka
If you've got any questions on my Portland adventure, get in touch via comment below.
Travel Guide | Portland Oregon USA
