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Each morning in Tokyo we would rise early, grab an onigiri (or two) and set off in search of the perfect coffee. Him a flat white, me a batch, filter or cold drip.
Little Nap Coffee Stand kept popping up in the foodie blogs and has been going strong since 2011. Owned by music lover Daisuke Hamada, you'll find a great playlist and even better coffee. Grab a coffee and small bite to eat and take your goods across the road to take in all that Yoyogi Park has to offer.
It wasn't until our Tokyo adventure that I understood the sheer importance of this emoticon: 🍙. Light bulb moment! So much happiness... so much packaging.
Onigiri (🍙) are little parcels of rice, stuffed with salty or sour ingredients like umeboshi (plum), tuna, pickles or salmon, and wrapped in nori. 'Wait, so you mean like sushi right?' Oh heck no.. this little guy is a Japanese specialty in its own right. You will find the convenience store fridges heaving with these perfectly wrapped parcels all over Japan.
Each morning we would grab an onigiri or two (forever restrained from grabbing three) for the road. The ultimate snack to tide you over until breakfast. Onigiri fuelled many a hunt for a decent flat white or batch brew through the streets of Tokyo.
I stumbled across Purple Peanuts on Collins Street during my last trip to Melbourne, conjuring memories of Tokyo. This little Japanese cafe has been going strong since 2011 and championed the brown rice sushi explosion. You'll find a range of traditional eats including Tsuke Don, salmon sashimi marinated in mirin, sake, sesame and soy, and perfectly wrapped 🍙🍙 on the counter.
Owned by Shimokita folk music legend Sokabe Kenichi , City Country City, is fondly referred to as CCC by locals. CCC opened its doors in 2006 bringing a medley of vintage records, beers, pasta and coffee to Shimokitazawa.
北沢2-12-13
細沢ビル4階
Setagaya, 東京都 〒155-0031
Japan
Phone number+81 3 3410 608
Only a minute’s walk from the South Exit of Shimokitazawa Station; take a left at McDonald’s and walk down the street for thirty seconds until you see the CCC sign on the right. City Country City is on the 4th floor of the building. Walk up the short flight of stairs and take the elevator on your left.
Just a couple of stops away from the mayhem of Shinjuku is a little place where Tokyo's flickering tempo slows right down to an almost lazy pace. Here the bright lights fade into two storey pastel buildings dotted with vintage shops and record stores. Its easy to lose yourself in the intricate labyrinth of tiny lanes beckoning you to explore. The cafes are kitsch, hidden in basements or up an unassuming flight of winding stairs.
'Shimokita' as it is affectionately known has a charming, untouched organic vibe, a haven for artists, musicians, Tokyo-ites and travellers wanting to tap into hipster Tokyo. By day the streets are peaceful but as dusk settles, the laid-back alleyways come alive with Shimo's vibrant bar and rock n roll music scene. Do yourself a favour on your next trip to Japan, book a homely airbnb and spend a few days uncovering the gritty magic of Shimokitazawa.
Asakusa (浅草) is located in the heart of Tokyo's shitamachi (literally 'low city'), one of the districts where past decades still echo in the atmosphere and landscape.
The main attraction is Sensoji , a popular Buddhist temple built in the 7th century. Enter the temply by Nakamise, a shopping street that has been providing temple visitors with delicious local snacks, souvenirs and tradition for centuries. Try the seasonal mochi and dorayaki.
'What? We are going to a Ramen Festival?'
'Yes, a Ramen festival!'
Odaiba (お台場) is a strange little entertainment district on a man made island in Tokyo Bay. Home to a random replica of the Statue of Liberty and a food hall called Ramen Festival at the Aqua City Mall.
The map of ramen!
The grungy streets of Shimokitazawa have that rustic, peaceful feel yet only a few stops away from the craziness of Shinjuku. A popular escape for Tokyoites, musos and uni students, full of record shops, vintage stores and great little bars and cafes. I love the ramshackle feel of the landscape here.
We stumbled upon Cafe Okidokei by sheer chance. The shop sign had a vintage look and the blackboard menu was scrawled with care. I usually get a feel of a place through its signage, its like the font talks to my tummy, telling me its a safe place to eat. So we ventured up the stairs and found ourselves in a cool little bar with smiling staff and the warmth of a little wooden cabin.
Okidokei is actually the Japanese translation of clock and, of which general manager, Taikan Nagai, seems to have a soft spot for. Although, not to be confused with okie dokie (we all had a giggle about this). Clocks and vintage farming bric-a-brac dot the walls and the woodwork gives it a charming edge. We escaped the rain and grey skies of an Autumn afternoon in Japan and nestled in for a set lunch.
For ¥1000 you can choose from a beef curry, baked chicken or a garlic pasta, served with a salad, rice and a drink. It can be a little tricky ordering food in Japan as you will be pressed to stumble across an English menu. It kinda adds to the charm of the whole process.
We settled in with a few beers and enjoyed the cheap and cheerful eats that Okidokei has to offer. It really was like being invited into someone's home and made this little meal all the more special. All I can say is always look up, you never know what wonders await as you climb up those stairs.
An odd marriage of chicken parmigiana and curry sauce. I love the Italian skew that cafes in Japan take.
Braised beef curry, garlic pasta or baked parmigiana chicken with curry sauce. Set menu with rice salad and a drink for ¥1000.
Shimokitazawa is known for its unique Japanese soup curry. This is Okidokei's approach to that notion. A little island of rice sitting in a shallow sea of slow cooked beef curry.
Look out for this sweet little sign and journey up the stairs.
This is Taikan Nagai. He is the curator and manager of this little abode.
Searching for things to do in Japan that are a little off the beaten track is near impossible. We stumbled across this cool site called Voyagin where you can attend workshops or tours with English speaking hosts. From doing your makeup like a Harajuku girl, taking a traditional cooking class and tuning up your ninja skills.
Whilst you can purchase tickets to the Studio Ghibli Museum from its official website you may find buying from Voyagin just a little easier.
I am so excited for our little adventure to Mitaki for a dose of Ghibli wonderment, I am jumping up and down like Totoro!
