ABC Brickworks | Singapore

Built in 1974 in Bukit Merah, ABC Brickworks is one of the longest running Market & Food Centres. Some say it’s named after Archipelago Brewery Company, the first commercial brewery in Singapore which was located nearby.

Fatty Cheong #01-120
If you’re after char siew, make a beeline for Fatty Cheong! Chan Tuck Cheong opened his stall in 1992, specialising in roast and barbecue meats - char siew, roast pork belly and roast duck. The char siew is cooked in a charcoal oven and served with a sweet and sticky gravy. Bu jian tian translates to ‘roast pork that doesn’t see the sky’, Fatty Cheong uses this tender under arm cut and its lean meat and fat ratio is what sets his char siew apart. Order with rice or wanton noodles.

Jason Penang Cuisine #01-113
After working as a chef to the British High Commissioner for over a decade, Jason Khaw wanted to go back to his Penang roots. He opened this hawker stall with his wife to showcase traditional dishes of his homeland. The Penang assam laksa is worth lining up for.

Jin Jin Hot / Cold Dessert #01-20 is known for its durian mango ice aka Gangster Ice (it’s trademarked btw) and Power Chendol, an ice chendol topped with a syrupy gula melaka with pandan jelly and beans. The new owners revived this institution and its now one of the most popular ice kacang and cendol spots. Jin Jin was closed so I went to Heng Heng Hot & Cold Dessert #01-146 where the couple have been running this dessert stall for over 30 years. I ordered the Durian Mango Ice 🍧🥭

Wow Wow West #01-133
This ‘Western food done local’ stall had a constant stream of customers lining up for its famous Chicken Chop. It’s slathered in housemade black pepper sauce and served with a selection of sides including coleslaw, fries, baked beans (canned of course) and pork cheese sausages.

Next time I’ll try…
Bao Zai #01-135
Sadly Bao Zai was closed this time (open Fri - Tues 11am - 7pm). Uncle Leong has been hand making bao for over 50 years. You’ve got to try big bao with pork and egg, char siew bao and red bean bao. 
Yuguo Curry Rice: 6 Jalan Bukit Merah, #01-136
Yuan Yuan Claypot Rice #01-38
Ah Er Soup #01-143

Chinatown Complex Food Centre | Singapore

Chinatown Complex Food Centre is Singapore’s largest hawker centre with over 260 stalls. The building is over 35 years old and was renovated in 2019.

You can tick many of Singapore’s top stalls off here and it’s home to many hard to find snacks. Settle in 🥢🥢

It’s really easy to get lost in this huge complex so take a photo of the stall map near the elevators and remember which coloured zone you are in.

Lian He Ben Ji Claypot #02-198/199
It’s open Fri to Wed from 4.30pm. This Michelin Bib Gourmand is very popular so get there early as you could be waiting! Traditional clay pot served in charcoal stoves with chicken on the bone, lap cheong and salted fish. Add soy and plenty of oil.


Crispy Rojak #02-195
This stall had a constant stream of locals. Very good Rojak made to order. The acid cut right through claypot so a nice addition. Loved the branding!


Smith Street Taps #02-062
This was one of the first craft-beer bars in Singapore and opened in 2014. You’ll find 20 taps of local and international crafties.

Mikkeller #02-058
Smith Street Taps collaborated with Mikkiller to open this stall right around the corner.


Shang Hai Fried Xiao Long Bao #02-
Chef Jiang (ex-Crystal Jade and Paradise Group dim sum chef) opened this stall earlier this year. The hero is Sheng Jian Bao which isn’t that common. It’s like a soup dumpling with thicker bao skin. It’s filled with pork meat and soup and the bottom is fried so you have this amazing *crunch*. Seriously good and worth the long wait!

My next time list is extensive so can’t wait to go back in December…
168 CMY Satay #02-168
Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle #02-126
Xiu Ji Ikan Bilis Yong Tau Fu #02-88
Fatty Ox HK Kitchen #02-84
Ann Chin Popiah #02-112
The 1950s Coffee Wu Shi Nian Da #02-48
Millennium Glutinous Rice #02-092
Old Amoy Cendol #02-008
Pan Ji Cooked Food #02-078
Ah Kong Wa Kuih #02-116

Maxwell Food Centre | Singapore

Maxwell Food Centre was originally a wet market and during the Japanese Occupation it housed a community kitchen for those displaced after the war. Maxwell reopened in 1987 and is home to some of the most famous hawker stalls thanks to Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsay.

Here’s what we ate

Chicken Rice at Tian Tian and Ah Tai

There’s even a doco about the war between Tian Tian and Ah Tai chicken rice stalls. Ah Tai was the head cook at Tian Tian for 20 years and set out on his own in 2012 (he couldn’t get along when the daughter took over). Thanks to Bourdain and its Michelin star, Tian Tian always has a long line. Ah Tai is four stalls away. Grab a green plate from Tian Tian ($5) and blue from Ah Tai ($3.50) and see for yourself.

Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice #01-10/11

Ah-Tai Hainanese Chicken Rice #01-07

China Street Fritters #01-64
Famous for its ngoh hiang fritters, this second generation stall has been running for over 80 years. Sadly the third generation won’t be taking over and with plans to retire, they listed the famed recipe for S$1 million. Sadly no buyers, but the stall continues to operate. We tried ngor hiong, egg slice, guan chang and ter kwa roll (pork liver roll) with Hokkien-style bee hoon.

Jin Hua Fish Soup #01-77
This one’s on the list for next time. This stall has been running for over 20 years with people lining up for its signature Fried Fish Meat Noodles with a rich milky base.

Ren Min #01-33
Fun fact, the founder’s first name is Manbeer and Ren Min originally opened as 3rd Culture Brewing Co back in 2016. Now Ren Min has two locations, one here at Maxwell and Old Airport Road. Pouring craft beers from its 12 taps an plenty of tins in the fridge. Find the tap list on Untappd.

Ah Gong Minced Pork Noodle #01-02
This stall recently made headlines for its $2.50 Bak Chor Mee. Had the signature dish served in a bubbling claypot. Each element is cooked from scratch and the broth was tasty.

Xing Xing Ondeh-Ondeh Tapioca Cake #01-31
This second generation hawker has been running the stall for the past 40 years. Get down early to get a platter of different kuehs—Tapioca Cake with Coconut Flakes, Ondeh-Ondeh, Steamed Tapioca Cake with Coconut Sugar and Kueh Kosui.

For more places to discover in Singapore. Check out my Google map.

Zion Riverside Food Centre | Singapore

Zion Riverside Food Centre opened in 1976 and is located near River Valley Road, along the Alexandra Canal. Smaller than most, this centre enjoyed a makeover last year with a new roof, automated tray return point and more tables.

Here’s what we ate…

Boon Tong Kee Kway Chap Braised Duck #01-24
Duck braised in herbal broth with rice. Next time will get the Kway Chap.

No. 18 Zion Road Fried Kway Teow #01-17
Worth the wait! There’s always a long line so don’t leave it to late. Each Char Kway Teow is cooked individually and the air punches with wok hei.

Lau Goh Teochew Chye Thow Kway #01-26
Said to be be one of pioneers of white carrot cake, Lau Goh is now run by son Peter. Order the black and white carrot cake fried with egg.

Ah Wang La Mian Xiao Long Bao #01-22
Best known for its Szechuan Spicy Wantons. We got the Xiao Long Bao.

Zion Road Big Prawn Noodle #01-04
The Hae Mee With Broth comes highly recommended. Next time will grab a bowl of prawn noodles from this Michelin-Bib Gourmand.

For more places to discover in Singapore. Check out my Google map.

DRINK 🍸 | THE LIBRARY (Singapore)

Update Nov 2017: this bar is now closed

The Library Singapore

Inspired by the Speakeasy bars during the Prohibition Era, The Library is a bit of a secret.  You even need a password to get in.  When you peer through the glass door at 47 Keong Saik Road (Singapore) all you see is a bookshelf adorned with books on pop art and architecture.  Behind that bookshelf, is a secret chamber flanked by mirrors tinged in red.  

The door swings open and you feel like you have stepped into a steampunk version of the roaring 20s.  Drowned in music, the copper bolted bar takes the spotlight and thirst overcomes you as you take in the visual feast.  

Former film student, Stefan Ravalli, is the brains behind this hidden bar adding his own style of assault of the dramatic to the Singapore scene.  We were lucky to have Stefan behind the bar that night and tried to order everything on the menu.

'We're not bartender poets.  We can't juggle.  
 We're not mixologists.
But we do love making drinks. 

 
We want to put the fun back into cocktails.  
All our drinks are made with the finest Singapore has to offer; hand-squeezed juices, fresh fruit and herbs, quality liquor we know
and love, and homemade ingredients;
all served up with fancy garnishes and unusual presentations. 
 
We take our drinks seriously so you don't have to.'

Ice Queen  - an aromatic collision of apple brandy, Yellow Chartreuese and Amaro Montenegro. Made zesty with equal parts lime and a dash of aromatic bitters.  You can have all the turkish delight you want. 
 

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Silver Screen
A Hollywood old fashioned from back when drinks were drinks - popcorn-infused Elijah Craig 12 year bourbon stirred slowly with sweet toffee apple syrup and a dash of 3D bitters.  All done in one take, like a real pro. 

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We Speak No Americano
We took the Negroni back to it's Yankee roots; Belvedere Cytrus vodka, shaken with Lillet blanc and Aperol, a lick of our Electric butters and an injection of fizz.

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Top Secret
White calvados and Aperol, sneaking around with a touch of lemon, house-made raspberry grenadine, egg white and yoghurt powder.  Served straight up with a shocking relevation. 

Piscotheque!
Barsol pisco and fresh passionfruit, teamed with aromatic chamomile tea and our spiced pineapple shrub.  Served long with a smoking passionfruit 'egg', pineapple leaves, mint sprigs, and all manner of tiki overkill. 

Wonky Donkey
Manuka honey, vodka, fresh cucumber and lime, spiked with orange bitters, roseate, and a slug of our house ginger beer.  Served in a copper mug with mint sprigs and cucumber.

Permanent Surprise
 Botanically-modified Junmai sake is given a lift with watermelon shrub, Strega and chili.  Pressurised with CO2 in our favourite high-tech shaker and paired with a side of kimchi.  You'd hardly recognise it.  

EAT | DIN TAI FUNG (Singapore)

The original restaurant opened in the 80s and now boasts a Michelin star.  Its success has seen Bingyi Yang and his wife open branches of their authentic Taiwanese restaurant all over the world. Din Tai Fung's signature dish xiao long baos are made in the trademark open concept kitchen.  You can watch hungrily as the chefs keep busy with the mountains of dumplings ordered each day.  

Din Tai Fung
26 Sentosa Gateway 
#01-217 Singapore 

EAT | WAKU GIN (Singapore)

'Waku Ghin' is derived from two Japanese words  ‘Waku’ meaning to arise (like water pouring forth from a hot spring) and 'Ghin' meaning 'silver'.  This striking metal is Chef Tetsuya Wakuda's favourite colour and it is highlighted throughout his distinguished restaurant at the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. 

The main dining room which enjoys the exclusive view of the Singapore skyline holds a mere 25 seats.  The exquisite 10-course degustation menu is considered amongst the best of the world. Tetsuya's famed degustation will set you back around $S936 ($728) for two people with exotic dishes such as sea urchin and abalone.

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Our last night in Singapore called for a slightly less indulgent evening so we treated my sister and her boyfriend to pre-dinner oysters and cocktails in The Bar at Waku Ghin. The Bar offers the same impeccable service with an astounding selection of 85 handcrafted cocktails.

The oysters were dressed with a simple mix of rice vinegar, olive oil and ginger and were served on ice.  Their seemingly gigantic size did not compromise the delicate flavour, each bursting with a briny taste of the ocean.  At $S72 per half dozen ...  thank god they were stunning!  

After a weekend of drinking countless bespoke cocktails we each selected a classic. Ryan ordered his signature man-swig Negroni, Kane opted for a Whiskey Old Fashioned, Vanessa went totally left field and ordered bloody mary and I chose a espresso martini just for kicks.  

As for Waku Ghin ... I will see you next time.

EAT | CRYSTAL JADE PALACE (Singapore)

Exquisite Chinese fine dining with reasonably priced dim yum.

Crystal Jade Palace Restaurant
91 Orchard Road #04-19
gee Ann City, Singapore

el: +65 6735 2388

EAT | SUR (Singapore)

Update Nov 2017: this restaurant is now closed

Singapore as been struck down with Latin American fever. Joining the ranks of fellow South American eateries, Lucha Locha and La Barra, Sur swung its doors open in November 2012.  Sur embraces the open kitchen/bar concept making the brightly lit space both warm and inviting.  Shelves line the walls brimming with South American ingredients and the bright mosaic tables welcome you to take a seat.  Peruvian-Venezuelan owner, Alejandro Luna, focuses on Nuevo Latino cuisine, his creations are traditional South American recipes reminiscent of his childhood.     

At Sur you will find fiercely fresh and flavoursome cuisine making it the perfect spot for a light lunch or intimate dinner with friends.

anchito - Fresh Orange, Mint, Ginger Beer
Papelón con Limón - Lime Juice with Raw Cane Sugar Pulp
Arepas - queso, shredded beef stew, pulled pork
eviche de Salmón - Salmon, Orange Leche de Tigra, Poached Taro Root, Red Onions, Jalapeños, Cilantro
lfajores -  oft, delicate traditional cookies

 

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Sur
​13 North Canal Road
​Singapore 
​Tel: 6222 2897

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EAT | TIAN TIAN HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE (Singapore)

​Finding the best chicken rice in Singapore was pretty high on the agenda.   Just before I left for Singapore I asked the twitterverse where to eat.  My good friend Abstract Matt just said "Everywhere! and Tian Tian for chicken rice".   To avoid the "whaaaat you didn't go there you idiot" that would have ensued upon my return, it was the first hawker stop on the chicken rice hunt. 
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We ordered a whole chicken and four serves of soup and rice. The chicken was succulent and white with a deliciously thick layer of gelatinous skin.  Served with tasty rice and an addictive lime chilli sauce.  Hands down best chicken rice ever.  I wish we had eaten here more than once!

Tian Tian Haianese Chicken Rice 
​​Maxwell Road Food Centre
​​1 Kadayanallur St, #01-10 S06918

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