Finish your pintxo crawl through Old Town at La Viña. Opened in 1959 by Eladio Rivera and Carmen Jiménez, this institution is now run by their son Santiago Rivera. You’ll be lining up for their famous burnt Basque cheese cream cake. It’s the stuff of legends and perfect with a glass of Pedro Ximenez. Get there early and go every night. I’m still dreaming of this a year on.